This Buddhist appetizer is nearly a thousand years ago, but I first encountered it on a trip to Shanghai in 2019. I was eating lunch in a charming vegetarian restaurant that smelled of incense and old mahogany furniture, and as I watched the server bring the “bird” out, beautifully plated and skin crisped to a deep golden brown, it struck me that this would be perfect as a vegan holiday dish.

The “goose” is made from layers of semi-dried tofu skin (腐皮), also known as beancurd sheets. They’re usually in the frozen section of an Asian supermarket. You stack three or four skins, wetting them with a sauce mixture, pile on a heap of the slivered mushroom carrot filling, fold them up into a packet and steam until the layers soften and wrinkle. After frying, the outside gets shatteringly crisp, in imitation of crispy goose skin.

Origins of Vegetarian Roast Goose

Su shao’e (素烧鹅) or “vegetarian roast goose” originated in one of the oldest and largest Buddhist populations in China in Jiangnan Province, which was a hub of vegetarian cuisine during the Song dynasty. Yuan Mei, the legendary Chinese poet and gastronome, included this dish in his classic treatise and cookbook Recipes from the Garden of Contentment from the Qing dynasty.

You’ll find variations across regional cuisines, and some chefs leave out the filling entirely, trying to replicate the actual texture of the goose, but my favorite is the traditional version stuffed with thin slivers of bamboo shoots, carrot, and shiitake mushrooms. Something crunchy, sweet, and savory in each bite. Nowadays, mock meats and the old imitation-style dishes are considered outdated in modern vegetarian restaurants in China, but this dish is enduringly popular on menus, probably because it’s delicious in its own right.

Instructions

The variety of tofu skin we’ll be using is frozen semi-dried tofu skin, also labeled as “beancurd sheets.” It typically comes in packs of 1 lb or ½ lb sizes, sold in most Asian supermarkets.

Note: the two sizes below actually have the same thing inside — the sheets in the smaller package are just folded several more times.

Do not use the shelf-stable packs of beancurd sheets / sticks that are also sold as tofu skin. Those are brittle and will not work for this recipe, where you want sturdiness but also flexibility.

Step 1

Thinly sliver the ingredients: Soak the mushrooms in the hot or boiling water for 30 minutes, until plump. Snip off and discard the mushroom stems and cut the caps into thin slivers. Reserve the soaking liquid.

Step 2

Combine the sauce in a small saucepan along with 2 tablespoons of the mushroom soaking liquid. Heat just long enough for the sugar to dissolve. Take off the heat and allow it to cool as you make the filling.

Step 3

Cook the filling: Heat a seasoned wok over medium heat and add the vegetable oil, swirling to coat the sides. Add the ginger and stir-fry until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Add the mushroom caps, bamboo shoots, and carrot. Stir-fry to combine. Pour in about 2 tablespoons of the sauce and stir-fry until the sauce has been absorbed, then season with salt to taste. It should be fairly salty, as this will provide most of the flavor for the tofu skin. Scrape into a bowl.

Step 4

In the meantime, trim off the string-like edges of the tofu skin sheets. Discard or use as a “brush.” On a flat surface, lay out one tofu skin sheet with the straight edge toward you. Using the trimmed edges, a spoon, or a pastry brush, rub a light layer of the remaining sauce over the first sheet. Top with a second sheet and brush again. Repeat with one more sheet, for three layers.

Pile half the filling in the center of the stacked sheets, about 3 inches from the straight bottom edge. Fold the left and right sides of the stack toward the center, then press down gently. Brush a thin layer of the sauce on the bottom edge to help seal it. Fold the bottom up and over the filling, then roll it into a packet about 4 × 8 inches in size. Set on a plate and cover so it doesn’t dry out. Use the remaining 3 sheets and filling to make a second packet.

Line two bamboo steamer baskets with a muslin cloth or perforated parchment paper. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Place the rolls seam-side down in the steamer, cover, and steam over medium-high heat for 10 to 12 minutes, until the tofu skin is wrinkled and noticeably darkened. Remove from the steamer and let cool briefly.

Heat about 3 inches of oil in a wok over medium-high heat to 325°F (162°C). Gently slide the steamed rolls into the wok and deep-fry, turning the rolls once, until both sides are golden brown, about 3 minutes on each side. You can also use a large skillet and pan-fry the rolls— heat about ½ inch of oil in the pan. Remove and let cool on a paper towel– lined plate. With a sharp knife, cut the rolls into 1-inch-wide pieces.

Video Instructions

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📖 Recipe

Chinese Vegetarian Roast Goose 素烧鹅 (Vegan)

A “goose” made from layers of semi-dried tofu skin (腐皮), also known as beancurd sheet. Filled with a slivered mushroom carrot filling, fold it up into a packet and steamed, then fried to a shatteringly crisp exterior, in imitation of crispy goose skin.

• Author: Hannah Che
• Prep Time: 30
• Cook Time: 30
• Total Time: 1 hour
• Yield: 4 to 6
• Cuisine: Chinese
• Diet: Vegan

Ingredients

The Sauce:

• 2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine
• 2 ½ tablespoons soy sauce or tamari
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1 teaspoon dark soy sauce*
• 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

The Filling

• ¾ ounce (20 grams) dried shiitake mushrooms (about 4 large)
• 1 cup (240 mL) hot water
• 2 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 (2-inch) piece (15 grams) fresh ginger, peeled and thinly slivered
• ½ cup (70 grams) thinly julienned fresh, canned or thawed frozen winter bamboo shoots
• 1 medium carrot, julienned
• ½ tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 3 (24-inch) circular semi-dried tofu skin sheets, halved to make 8 semicircles (about 5 ounces / 135 grams)
• Vegetable oil, for frying

Instructions

1. Soak the mushrooms in the hot or boiling water for 30 minutes, until plump. Snip off and discard the mushroom stems and cut the caps into thin slivers. Reserve the soaking liquid.
2. Prepare the sauce. Combine all the sauce ingredients in a small saucepan along with 2 tablespoons of the mushroom soaking liquid. Bring to a simmer and heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves. Take off the heat and allow to cool as you make the filling.
3. Stir-fry the filling. Heat a seasoned wok over medium heat and add the vegetable oil, swirling to coat the sides. Add the ginger and stir-fry until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Add the mushroom caps, bamboo shoots, and carrot. Stir-fry to combine. Pour in about 2 tablespoons of the sauce and stir-fry until the sauce has been absorbed, then season with salt to taste. It should be fairly salty, as it’ll be inside the layers of tofu skin. Scrape into a bowl.
4. Layer the tofu skin sheets. In the meantime, trim off the string-like edges of the tofu skin sheets. Discard or use as a “brush.” On a flat surface, lay out one tofu skin sheet with the straight edge toward you. Using the trimmed edges, a spoon, or a pastry brush, rub a light layer of the remaining sauce over the first sheet. Top with a second sheet and brush again. Repeat with two more skins.
5. Wrap the filling. Pile half the filling in the center of the stacked tofu skin sheets, about 3 inches from the straight bottom edge. Fold the left and right sides of the stack toward the center, then press down gently. Brush a thin layer of the sauce on the bottom edge to help seal it. Fold the bottom up and over the filling, then roll it into a packet about 4 × 8 inches in size. Set on a plate and cover so it doesn’t dry out. Stack and fill the remaining 4 tofu skins to make a second packet
6. Steam. Line two bamboo steamer baskets with a muslin cloth or perforated parchment paper. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Place the rolls seam-side down in the steamer, cover, and steam over medium-high heat for 10 to 12 minutes, until the tofu skin is wrinkled and noticeably darkened. Remove from the steamer and let cool briefly.
7. Fry or pan-fry. Heat about 3 inches of oil in a wok over medium-high heat to 325°F (162°C). Gently slide the steamed rolls into the wok and deep-fry, turning the rolls once, until both sides are golden brown, about 3 minutes on each side. You can also use a large skillet and pan-fry the rolls— heat about ½ inch of oil in the pan. Remove and let cool on a paper towel– lined plate. With a sharp knife, cut the rolls into 1-inch-wide pieces. Drizzle some of the remaining sauce on top or serve as is.

Notes

• Use tamari for a gluten-free version of this dish.
• The tofu skin sheets dry out and crack very easily, so be sure to keep them in an airtight bag and freeze them after opening.
• The dark soy sauce provides a deeper color. If you don’t have it, replace with 1 teaspoon regular soy sauce or tamari.
• If you want more of the sauce liquid, double the sauce ingredients. Reduce the remainder in a pan until it’s slightly thickened, then drizzle on top when serving.
• I prefer to serve the roast goose without a sauce, for the crispiest skin

Tomato and egg stir-fry is the first Chinese dish I learned to make as a kid. It’s so simple that it’s become a running joke among college students that even if you don’t know how to cook anything else, you can probably make this. The combination is a classic for a reason: the tomatoes with their juicy sweetness and acidity, paired with fluffy fried eggs, cooked down until rich and saucy and spooned over rice— just perfect on a weekday night. Like shakshuka, this dish is comforting and unassuming, a one-pot dish that can make for a satisfying meal.

When I became vegan four years ago I thought I’d have to give up this dish forever, but last May I was in China, traveling through the Jiangsu province with my brothers, and I came across a vegan version served at a restaurant tucked into a shopping mall in Suzhou. The restaurant used stir-fried yuba (tofu skin) in place of the eggs, and it was a revelation. I scarfed it down, feeling oddly emotional, gratified to eat something that been missing from my life for years. Back in my kitchen, I tried to make my own version inspired by that dish, and I can say it’s just as satisfying as the original.

What do you use for eggs in a vegan version?

I use a combination of traditional Chinese ingredients— yuba (also called 腐竹, or 豆包 in Taiwan) and fried gluten puffs (面筋) simmered with the tomatoes to substitute for the texture, flavor, and protein of scrambled eggs.

Yuba and wheat gluten have been used for thousands of years in vegetarian Chinese cooking in Buddhist temples and home kitchens, and I much prefer these whole foods to processed modern inventions like TVP and egg replacements like JustEgg. I have two chapters dedicated to yuba and the different types of seitan/gluten in my upcoming cookbook, so think of this as a preview!

Yuba is tofu skin, literally the thin layer of skin that forms on top of soy milk when it cools. Unlike tofu, yuba is pliable and webby and quite stretchy, with a protein content similar to egg white. It’s a bit confusing because yuba comes in many forms— flat sheets, dried into brittle sticks, or tied into knots— but for this recipe you want the soft, flexible bundles of yuba (labeled 鲜腐竹), usually frozen and available in the freezer section in Asian supermarkets in the U.S. I buy fresh yuba (豆包) here in Taiwan, but frozen yuba is identical after it’s thawed. Don’t substitute the hard, dehydrated fuzhu sticks— they remain dense even after soaking and don’t result in the fluffy texture we’re looking for.

I also added fried gluten puffs (mian jin qiu, 面筋球): these are bits of wheat gluten that are fried into puffy, hollow balls. They are sold either dried or canned, soaked in a marinade/broth. When you cook them, they absorb the flavors of the sauce and become delightfully chewy and juicy, with a richness that adds to the savoriness of the dish. They’re commonly used in Taiwanese and Chinese cooking (usually simmered in hotpot), and are available in any Asian supermarket.

I prefer to use the dried puffs (on the left), since canned gluten usually comes pre-flavored in a marinade.

You can leave these out if you’re gluten-intolerant— the recipe relies mostly on the yuba, but the fried gluten puffs provide just that extra bit of chewiness and richness. In combination, they are spot-on substitutes for the texture of scrambled egg white and egg yolk.

Ingredients in this Dish:

• 3 medium tomatoes
• 4 oz yuba, fresh or frozen
• Fried gluten puffs, either 2 cups dried or one 3.5 oz can of canned Chinese gluten (mian jin)
• Cooking oil
• Garlic, peeled and sliced.
• Scallion, white part and green parts separate
• Light soy sauce. For umami and saltiness.
• Water.
• Sugar + salt. Season to taste.
• Ketchup. See notes.

How to Make:

1. Prepare the ingredients. Soak frozen yuba to thaw until softened. Unfold and tear into pieces, about 2-3 inches long. Soak the dried gluten puffs in warm water, or drain if using canned. Cut the tomatoes into bite-sized pieces (I like to blanch the tomatoes first to peel them, see Notes).
2. Fry the yuba “eggs”. Heat wok or pan over medium heat and add 2 tablespoon cooking oil. Swirl around to coat surface, and heat until oil surface is shimmering. Add yuba and fry until puffy and golden brown, like scrambled eggs.  Remove from wok.

3. Stir-fry all ingredients. Heat the wok again and add garlic and white parts of scallion, and fry until aromatic. Add chopped tomatoes and cook for 45 seconds while stirring, then add soy sauce, water, sugar, and ketchup. When the sauce has come to a simmer, add gluten puffs and fried yuba, then reduce to low heat and simmer for 2 minutes to allow them to soak up the flavors. Taste and adjust flavors, adding more salt or soy sauce for saltiness, sugar for sweetness, ketchup for acidity. If desired, you can add starch slurry at the end to thicken the sauce and make it glossy; otherwise, let the sauce simply burble away until it’s reduced to your liking.

4. Serve. Ladle into a serving bowl, scatter on chopped scallions (and a drizzle of sesame oil if you’re feeling it), grab a bowl of rice and start eating!

Notes/Tips:

• Don’t skimp on the oil for this dish! Eggs have a richness due to the fat content of the yolk, but yuba is almost entirely protein, so using enough oil while frying will ensure it’s closer to the consistency of scrambled eggs.
• I peel my tomatoes first (quick dip in boiling water and then a shock in cold water and the peel comes right off); most restaurants will do this for the smoothest texture and to avoid bits of tomato peel in the dish, but this is totally optional. For the fastest home-style version just chop the whole tomatoes into bite-sized pieces and you’re good to go.  
• Adding ketchup is a secret trick of Chinese cooks— the extra oomph of sweetness with the ketchup intensifies the savoriness and enhances the flavor of the fresh tomatoes.
• The tomatoes will release water while cooking, but I prefer the dish a bit more saucy so I will add some extra liquid to the pan.

If you made this dish let me know how you liked the recipe by leaving a comment and a rating below. Or tag me on Instagram @hannah.che, I love seeing what you make!

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📖 Recipe

Vegan Stir-Fried Tomato & “Egg” 番茄炒腐竹

★★★★★

5 from 1 reviews

A vegan version of Chinese stir-fried tomato and egg (fan qie chao dan,番茄炒蛋) made with protein-rich, luxurious fried tofu skin (yuba) in place of scrambled eggs. Savory and satisfying, a comforting dish over rice. 

• Author: Hannah Che
• Prep Time: 5
• Cook Time: 10
• Total Time: 15 minutes
• Yield: 4
• Category: Vegetables
• Method: Cook
• Cuisine: Chinese
• Diet: Vegan

Ingredients

• 3 medium (450g) tomatoes
• 3 tbsp cooking oil
• 1 heaping cup (15g) dried fried gluten puffs, or one 3.5 oz canned gluten (mian jin)
• 2 sheets (108g) frozen or fresh yuba (fu zhu)
• 2–3 cloves garlic, smashed and sliced
• 1 scallion, white parts cut into diagonal slices, green parts thinly sliced for garnish
• 2 tsp light soy sauce
• ½ cup water
• 1 tbsp ketchup
• 2 tsp sugar
• ½ tsp salt
• Optional starch slurry: ½ teaspoon cornstarch + 1 tablespoon water, combined in a small bowl*

Instructions

1. Prepare the yuba and gluten puffs: soak frozen yuba to thaw until softened. Tear into pieces, about 2-3 inches each. Soak the dried gluten puffs in warm water, or drain if using canned.
2. Peel the tomatoes (optional). Score the bottom of each tomato with an X-shaped cut. Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil, then place tomatoes in the boiling water and blanch briefly for 20 seconds before removing and shocking in cold water. Peel off the skins and cut tomatoes in half, then quarters, then bite-sized pieces.
3. Fry the yuba “eggs”. Heat wok or pan over medium heat and add 2 tablespoon cooking oil. Swirl around to coat surface, and heat until oil surface is shimmering. Add yuba and fry until puffy and golden brown, like scrambled eggs.  Remove from wok.
4. Stir-fry ingredients together. Heat the wok again and add garlic and white parts of scallion, and fry until aromatic. Add chopped tomatoes and cook for 45 seconds while stirring, then add soy sauce, water, sugar, and ketchup. When the sauce has come to a simmer, add gluten puffs and fried yuba, then reduce to low heat and simmer for 2 minutes to allow them to soak up the flavors.  Taste and adjust flavors, adding more salt or soy sauce for saltiness, sugar for sweetness, or ketchup for acidity.
5. *If desired, you can add starch slurry to thicken the sauce and make it glossy– turn up the heat at the end, give the slurry a stir and whisk it in to the wok; otherwise, let the sauce simply burble away until it’s reduced to your liking. 
6. Serve. Ladle into a serving bowl, scatter on chopped scallions (and a drizzle of sesame oil if you’re feeling it), grab a bowl of rice and start eating!